Hanoi has shaken off its once hostile attitude to travelers to become one of the most beguiling cities in Southeast Asia. It's slow-paced yet quick to charm, with a lovely landscape of lakes, shaded boulevards, verdant public parks and French-colonial architecture.
Hanoi personifies the spirit of historic Vietnam in the temples, monuments and pockets of ancient culture along the narrow streets of the Old Quarter, yet perfectly reflects the rapid changes sweeping the country as Hanoian yuppies sip cappuccino in roadside cafés and compare cell phones.
General information:
Population: 5,145,300
Area: 2000 km2
Ethnicities: Kinh, Hoa
Districts: Ba Đ́nh, Cau Giay, Đong Đa, Hoan Kiem, Hai Ba Trung, Hoàng Mai, Long Biên, Tây Ho and Thanh Xuân, and six outer districts of Đông Anh, Gia Lâm, Tu Liêm, Thanh Tri, Sóc Son and Ha Tay.
Visitors head to Hanoi during all different times of the year, but the most busy tourist season is during the summer months. This is interesting, because it is generally also considered to be the time of the worst weather in Hanoi. It is not only hot, but it rains a lot during this time of year and so it gets quite humid. Visitors who can avoid the major tourist months actually might find that not only are the crowds thinner and the streets easier to negotiate but the weather is also nicer.
The average winter high temperature in Hanoi is approximately sixty five degrees and it rarely rains from November through February, so this is a good time for travelers to consider visiting the area. There is also a large celebration in the area at the beginning of the year which many tourists enjoy.
From February on, the rainy season begins, hitting its peak in about April but continuing through the summer. Summer high temperatures are generally in the nineties with thick humidity.
Many people worry about safety issues when traveling to Hanoi. This is due primarily to the fact that there are rumors that Vietnam is an unfriendly place for many travelers. These rumors stem from the fact that the area saw years and years of domination by other countries and erected a barrier around themselves and foreigners as a result of this. However, it is no longer the case that Hanoi is unfriendly. In fact, much of the money in the area comes from tourists and the locals recognize and appreciate that.
The one main area where there is generally some concern for safety is in using public transportation in Hanoi. The bus system there can be confusing, which means that visitors are often not alert to their surroundings when navigating the bus, because they are trying to figure out what is going on with their schedules and routes. This fact, combined with the fact that busses and terminals are often crowded, makes these areas a hotbed for petty theft crimes. In particular, pick pocketing is a risk in these areas. Visitors should take standard safety precautions to make sure not to become victims of this type of crime.
If you are a foreigner and want to find a good hospital in Hanoi, it only can be Hanoi French Hospital. HFH (http://www.hfh.com.vn) is the first international hospital in Hanoi. It serves foreigners. The hospital stands as a 68-bed multi disciplinary care facility offering essential medical and surgical services. It aims at serving Vietnamese as well as foreigners, residents or travelers, in and around Hanoi, reaching for the all the northern Vietnam.
Getting there
By plane: Visitors generally arrive in Hanoi by plane, flying in to the Noi Bai Airport which is located in the Soc San District of Hanoi. This district is approximately thirty miles from downtown Hanoi so upon arrival visitors generally opt to rent a car to proceed to their hotel destination. Car rental is relatively inexpensive and is easy to obtain at the airport, although it is recommended that reservations are made in advance, especially if traveling to Hanoi during the busy summer season. Note that self-drive car rental in Vietnam is not available (and once you wander the chaotic streets of Hanoi, you'll probably be relieved that you got a driver!).
The biggest problem at the airport is the lack of help for tourists. There is a helpful tourist information desk in the terminal though be insistent about your budget if you let them book you a hotel. Once you exit the terminal, there are very few signs to help you find, for example, the Hotel mini-buses, and the local bus. Beware of overcharging by taxi drivers.
There are ATMs, many of which do not work for many tourists. As you are not allowed to buy Vietnamese Dong outside of Vietnam, you may feel under pressure to get some currency quickly. There is a branch of Vietcom bank in the terminal who will provide dong with a debit/credit card if you argue with them long enough about how many of the ATMs have refused you cash. Also it is relatively easy to get around in Vietnam with US dollars, though the smallest denomination accepted is the dollar bill, so you'll probably end up paying more than you need to (eg a beer costs around 20-30c in Hanoi).
By train: Some visitors make Hanoi a stop on a multi-destination trip. The train system is the best way to do this. The station, Ga Hang Co, is efficient and relatively inexpensive. It should be noted that it is often slow but it is fairly comfortable and can be used for traveling long distances to and from Hanoi.
By bus: The bus system is generally not a preferred method of getting in to and out of Hanoi , although it is an option. There are numerous stations throughout the country for travelers seeking to get to Hanoi in this manner. However, the stations are considered hot spots for tourists to become victims of crime. Additionally, the bus system is considered to be uncomfortable by international standards. On the other hand, it is quite inexpensive so travelers who can not afford to get to Hanoi any other way might choose this option.
Hanoi is an incredible busy and traffic packed city. There are 3.5 million people in Hanoi and 2 million of them own motorbikes. You will be shocked by families up to 5 including babies riding on a 100cc motorbike. Women often ride side-saddle. Sidewalks are not for walking but are used for parking bikes, cars, bicycles. Additionally, many motorbikes are parked in peoples homes.
When you first arrive in Hanoi you will feel a great culture shock. The first thing you should do is hire a cyclo (the drivers will ask you non-stop if you would like a ride, so they are not hard to find). A cyclo is a small 2 person (preferably 1 person) rickshaw that is pushed by a pedal bike. You can get an hour ride for approximately 50,000 dong ($3). This mode of transportation takes you around the old section of town and starts to provide you an ease with the overwelming traffic and congestion of people. Each street focuses on one task (i.e. silk, metal, travel, cds, etc.). Traffic at intersections is like weaving a needle. All traffics merge and pedestrians walk right through the middle. Once accomplished you will find yourself at home in Hanoi. Do not run nor stop - the traffic is watching you at your pace. This is truly scary.
Taxis are very inexpensive, but always, always agree on the price upfront. Taxis do not stop at intersections nor do they have any regard for motorcycles - they honk their horn and stick right on the motorcycles bumper until they move. Vietnamese are not faced by this - they simply take it in stride.
A fabulous, culture rich city. Once you start living with the non-stop honking (24/7), the aggressive driving and the pedestrians and street-vendors mixing all together, you will love your experiences here.
Visitors should also know that, upon getting in to downtown Hanoi, it is relatively easy to get around on foot, so not much money will likely need to be spent on internal travel and visitors should feel free to splurge on tours when they get the chance. Bicycling is another option for getting around and can be used not only within the city but also on the nature trails of Hanoi. However, visitors should know that bicycle rentals do not come with helmet rentals so they may have to consider purchasing a helmet for their stay there in order to protect themselves while riding.
Visitors might be confused about crossing the road by foot in Hanoi. Traffic is chaotic, with motorbikes generally, though not exclusively, driving on the right. When it comes to junctions with traffic lights, red lights are treated as optional by a lot of motorbikes, so be as wary crossing the road at junctions as anywhere else. Don't bother waiting for a gap in the traffic as there never is any. Do what the locals do - wait for a big enough gap to step into the flow of traffic and then keep edging forward at as constant a speed as possible without stepping in front of anything that would need to swerve too much or brake to sharply to avoid hitting you. There is one basic rule for traffic in Vietnam - "Don't hit anything". Besides that, pretty much anything goes, though the system seems to work quite well.
Your hotel can easily rent a motorcycle for you. They may ask you keep your passport. The rate is roughly VND100,000 per 24 hours.
Another common way of getting round is to rent by the journey. Taxis can be flagged down on the larger, busier roads, and some (though not all) are metered. Xe Oms (motorcycle taxis) are everywhere - at least at every street corner in Hanoi. Finally there are the Cyclos, a special kind of bike with a seat at the front, attached to the handlebar column. These are offerred regularly to tourists, and are a similar price to taxis.